So, we ended
the challenge with me thinking that we’d see about whether it was all over –
even before I’d finished drinking the champagne. If you’re old enough to have a
good enough memory of Tom and Jerry cartoons, I invite you to recall that a
number of times our protagonists would find themselves on the horns of a
dilemma. This would be represented by a good angel version of either Tom or
Jerry, and a naughty devil version appearing on either shoulder, both trying to
persuade the original to decide on their preferred course of action. This is
how I’d like to present the dilemma which now faced me as I was driving us home
on the Sunday morning. Basically, the little devil told me that I’d done the
job, and that was that. The little angel reminded me that I’d passed a number
of disused station buildings – or passed under them, and I hadn’t sketched any
of them, and shouldn’t I take care of this oversight? Little devil just
laughed, but it was a nervous laugh, and when he was unable to come up with an
argument against doing so, he promptly vanished with a puff of indignation.
·
I will make one final trip, during which I will
try to make a sketch of all the former station buildings I saw during the
challenge, and as many others as is feasible.
·
Only stations which were once part of the lines
as they exist now count. Stations from branches or arms which no longer exist
as part of the Underground do not count.
·
Except Aldwych. (since it’s easy to get to in
Central London)
·
Only stations with street level buildings
remaining count.
·
I reserve the right to change, revise and cancel
existing rules as I feel like it, and to create new ones on an ad hoc basis.
One trip
then, and an itinerary consisting of:-
Osterley and
Spring Grove
South Harrow
Brompton
Road
Knightsbridge
Hyde Park
Down Street
Aldwych
Mark Lane
York Road
Euston
South
Kentish Town
Marlborough
Road
The problem
with the rules was, of course, the fact that they didn’t really give me a clue
about how I was going to persuade Mary to give her blessing to another trip. So
far it had taken up a fair proportion of our free time for over 3 months. With
the best will in the world it was going to be hard to talk her into giving her
blessing for one more trip which wasn’t even part of the original challenge. By
rights I ought to leave it for a good year or so before broaching it.
I need to be
careful how I phrase this next bit. I would never want to give the impression
that I look on my mother in law having a bout of ill health as a slice of good
fortune on my part. My in laws – Jen and Mary’s step dar John live in the
Alicante area of Spain, and both have had their health issues over the last few
years. When it gets particularly difficult, Mary will often fly out to help
them for a week or a fortnight. Within a month of our return from the final
challenge trip, Jen was hospitalised for a week, and so Mary flew out to help.
If me not
doing this additional trip could have had any bearing on Jen’s illness, or made
things easier for Mary and John, then of course I wouldn’t have done it. But in
all honesty it could make no difference to them at all. So. . . play ball.
This was my
planned itinerary. Having to do the two western arms of the Piccadilly is a
pain, but the simplest way will be to forget about the rule, from the challenge,
of not doubling back on myself in the same trip. So I start at Osterley and
Spring Grove, catch the Piccadilly to Acton Town, and change for South Harrow.
Then it’s back along the Piccadilly all the way to Brompton Road. In a very
doable walk, I can take in Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, Hyde Park Corner and
Down Street. A short walk to Green Park station, and then a ride to Holborn
will put me just a few minutes’ walk from Aldwych station. Another brief walk
to Temple station puts me on the District or Circle Line which will give me a
ride all the way to Tower Hill, from which it’s just a sort step to Mark Lane
station and back. From Tower Hill the Circle will get me to Kings Cross. It’s a
round trip walk of about 25 minutes to York Road station and back, but only a
short ride to Euston. Once I’ve bagged the disused Leslie Green station
building there, then it’s up the Northern line to Kentish Town, and a walk to
South Kentish Town and back. Then it’s back to King’s Cross, and the
Metropolitan to Finchley Road. A walk to Marlborough Road, and then relax. Simples.
It’s funny coming back to Osterley and Spring Grove having
visited all of the functioning stations since. In some ways it’s slightly –
only slightly, mind you, reminiscent of some of the westernmost stations on the
Metropolitan, and also some of the older District Line stations. Come to think
of it, that’s really what this is. If you visit when the bookshop is open, the
owners are perfectly happy for you to have a bit of a nose around because it
used to be a station, although don’t embarrass yourself by trying to find an
accessway down to what remains of the platforms.
I do have a
liking for second hand bookshops, and it’s only with reluctance that I tear
myself away from the place to walk back towards Osterley station. However, I know that I must. The longest walk
today is probably only going to take me about half an hour, but there’s several
walks to do, since most of our disused stations aren’t conveniently situated
right next to an existing station.
Back on the
train, I come up with a rather silly London Underground station trivia
question. Namely – which of the cardinal compass points occurs most often in
the names of tube stations. My best guess is North. When I get to Acton Town I
google this, and find out that East is very much the runt of the litter with a
mere 8, while West does surprisingly well with 10, just being pipped by North
and South which both have 11. However, once we add South Kentish Town as a tie
break, that just gives it to South for me. So South progresses to the second-round
stages of my new game of Tube station name world cup.
South Harrow station’s former building still backs onto the
platform, I’ve saved a list of Underground stations on my Kindle, and this
means that I’m able to play some more first round matches of Tube world cup
while I’m waiting for the train to take me back along the Piccadilly, and for
the ride to South Kensington. The results are as follows. Road vs. any other
word for a thoroughfare always looked like a hefty win for Road. There are
actually 13 stations with Road in the name, albeit that two of these are Ealing
and Fulham BROADways. However a strong showing from Street ably supported by
Lane won the day, although Road scored more than either did on its own. Green
v. Park was an intriguing match. Well, at least at the start. For the first
third of the alphabet it was pretty much neck and neck, but then Park just
romped away a massive score. Completing the first round we had Natural features
– Hill, Brook etc. vs. Buildings/parts of buildings proved to be a real
thriller, with both scoring a hatful, seeing natural features home by the odd
couple of goals.
The semi-finals
and the finals have to wait as we alight at South Kensington.
Looking back at my own notes, I can see that I have at least
mentioned all of the stations we’re going to visit in this walked section. I
didn’t actually go so far as taking in Brompton Road station though.
What remains of the station, essentially the front of the side entrance, isn’t
on Brompton Road at all, but Cottage Place. Apparently, the Brompton Road
entrance remained until being demolished in the early 70s. I believe that the
building now adorned by remains of the station is a residential block. I
certainly hope so. I’d love to live in such a place, although I can’t see it
ever happening on an English teacher’s salary.
One of the reasons why Brompton Road was closed was because when
elevators were installed in Knightsbridge Station, the entrance was
sited closer to
Brompton Road, so that the other station became completely
unnecessary. Still, at least part of the old station can be seen on Hoopers
Court, where the rear exit forms part of a much larger building. On the sketch
you really have to look closely to see the remnants of the rear entrance to the
Leslie Green station, but they’re there. I have to say I love the idea that you
can just walk around a corner and see something that was so obviously once a
tube station just minding its own business as part of an office building. I
remember of an archaeologist friend of mine who once paid a visit to Ephesus
telling me that if you wander the streets you can still see blocks, stones, and
mouldings which were once part of the famous Temple of Artemis, one of the
original 7 Wonders of the World, which were reused centuries later in new
buildings. This is a similar thing to me. Pretentious? Moi?
Hyde Park
Corner’s Leslie Green Station has actually been the entrance to the
Wellesley Hotel since
2012. On a whim, I checked out how much it costs for a
double room for one night. Let’s just put it this way, I can’t afford it.
Still, I applaud the place for preserving the station façade by building the hotel around it as much as they
have, even though I can’t help wishing that the previous occupants, Pizza on
the Park, were still there. I’m hungry, and it’s only mid-morning, but stuff
it, I’m not going to hang about with my packed lunch today.
We've just had three disused Leslie Green stations in a row, and we're not even close to be done yet. It's only a brief walk to a disused station that I did actually visit way back on my third Piccadilly Line trip months ago.
There are
websites dedicated to Former London Underground Stations, and pretty much
everyone I’ve seen features our next station, Down Street. Bearing in mind its
history, that’s not at all
surprising. Repeating what I wrote after my previous visit - Down
Street was originally a stop between Green Park and Hyde Park Corner, which
opened in 1907, and closed, due to lack of use, in 1932. The Leslie Green
station building still remains, but probably wouldn’t be much remembered other
than for the fact that it was used by Winston Churchill as a bunker during
World War II. Apparently, it is possible to access the underground levels of
the station, and occasionally London Transport has allowed the privileged few
to do just that. Last time I was here I bought a paper, but today I’m even more
of a man on a mission, and I take the necessary photos for the sketch, and then
stride onwards to Green Park station.
This gives
me time to work out how the semi-finals of Tube station world cup pan out.
Streets and Lanes United comfortably beat South Wanderers, while the all-conquering
Natural Features All Stars trounce Park Rangers. In the final, it’s a very
comfortable win for Natural Features, while Park Rangers wins the third place
play off and will therefore not have to pre-qualify for the next tournament.
I walk from Holborn station to Aldwych on the Strand. In case
one should forget which thoroughfare it stands on, the restored station front
proudly announces that this is Strand station. Aldwych is a prime candidate for
the tube station most seen in films and on TV. I think that I can understand
the thinking behind creating this station on its short spur from Holborn in
1907. The Strand is still chock-a-block full of theatres, which I can only
guess were expected to provide the majority of passengers from their audiences.
But . . . the area isn’t exactly poorly served with other stations, and I don’t
believe that having this station here ever made real sense. Throughout my time
growing up in London this little spur was in blue and white stripes, showing it
was only a part time station. What it did for the rest of the time I have no
idea. TfL just waited until the lifts needed replacing in 1994, then closed the
whole thing. Various schemes to utilise the station as part of extensions to
existing line have been made since, but to be honest the cost would probably be
prohibitive. Then there’s the fact that this is a listed building as well. As
for the films and television, well, even before it closed the part time nature
of the station made it particularly suitable for filming.
Our last
five stops have all been Leslie Green stations. Now, though, after walking to
Temple Station, I take the District to Tower Hill, where it’s just a short walk
westwards to Mark Lane station, which was later called Tower Hill until
it was replaced by the current station in 1967. There’s little to show
that the arched doorway on a Victorian block once led into a station,
apart from the engraved inscription, and the fact that the archway has a raised
lintel above it, which the other arches along the front of the building lack.
I’ll be honest, it in no way sticks out so much as a Leslie Green remnant, but
on the other hand, at least it’s better than the Tower Hill station of today. Mark
Lane itself replaced a nearby station called Tower of London on the
Metropolitan Railway. There’s nothing to be seen of this station today, but it
closed because, when the District and Metropolitan Railways finally made the
connection to complete the Circle Line, it just wasn’t big enough to handle the
projected passenger numbers. There you go.
Speaking of the Circle Line, this is what takes me from the current
Tower Hill station to Kings Cross. We’re back on the Piccadilly Line now, in a
way. From King’s Cross it’s just over a ten minute walk to York Road
station. I didn’t walk this section when I made my Piccadilly Line trips, so
haven’t seen York Road before. York Road itself is now called York Way, not
that this is important. It’s a large and still relatively intact and impressive
Leslie Green building. It currently serves as an emergency exit from the
tunnels. I hope that the building stays. There’s been periodic talk about
reopening it, but somehow, I can’t see that there’s any huge likelihood of
this. I’m pretty sure that the reasons why it was closed would still apply –
namely that it was underused, and closing it reduced journey times on the
Piccadilly. I just hope that it doesn’t end up going the way of Euston.
Yes, Euston. Let me explain that. Leslie Green’s Euston
Station building on Melton Street has been disused for, well, I don’t really
know, but my guess is that it’s decades. As part of the development of Euston
to accommodate HS2, this building is going to be demolished, and demolished
soon. Which was probably why I was in so much of a hurry today. Chances are
that by the time you actually read this, it’ll be gone.
I have mixed
feelings, and I’ll try to explain. I think Leslie Green stations are beautiful,
and in an ideal world, all of them would still be standing. It’s not an ideal
world, though. The point of conservation and preservation is to protect the
best of our shared cultural heritage, yes. However, it isn’t to preserve them
in aspic. Yes, there should be debate, serious and prolonged if necessary,
every time a building like this is considered for demolition. Development, and
redevelopment, is a fact of life in any city, and even more so in a city like
London, and if you look at the history of the city, it always has been.
Otherwise there’d still be an amphitheatre where the Guildhall still stands,
for example. And a gallows instead of Marble Arch. And fortified gateways
blocking major roads in and out of the Square Mile. I absolutely love museums,
but I’m not sure it would be a good idea to try to live in one.
What we have
to ensure, though, is that development does not impoverish the area, as
happened so much from the 60s right through until the end of the 20th
century. Or to put it another way, if you’re going to take away a building like
this, then make sure you put something worthwhile in its place., instead of
something which a mere 20 years after its built causes those who even notice it
to wonder ‘ what were they thinking?’ If nothing else, it must make each of the
Leslie Green stations still standing more valuable to all of us.
You can tell we’re back on the Northern Line from that, can’t you? Our
last two former stations of the trip are both stations I walked past on
previous trips. The first of these is South Kentish Town. This is
another entry in the ‘putting a station so close to another on the same line
never really made sense’ stakes. In fact, in a very few years we will be
celebrating its centenary. What’s that? No, of course it’s more than 100 years
old already – it was built in 1907 during the great explosion of station
building which saw the 50 Leslie Green stations raised in a few short years.
No, in 2024 it will be the centenary of the closure of the station. There was a
strike in the Lots Road Power Station in June 1924, and the station was closed,
initially just for the day of the strike. Since it was closed anyway it made
sense just not to open it again, and that’s what happened. Local residents are
very fond of the building. There was quite a fuss a couple of years ago when it
was proposed to build flats above the building. Hopefully this affection will
continue to ensure its survival into the future.
The final leg saw me head from Camden Town station back to Euston,
and then from Euston to Baker Street, and Baker Street to Swiss Cottage. I
passed Marlborough Road During my Metropolitan Line odyssey. The temptation is
to say that Marlborough Road was a short lived station, but it actually lasted
for 71 years after it’s 1868 opening. For all that I’ve been able to find out,
this may well be the original station building. In its time since it has had
different occupant. It was closed as a Chinese restaurant in 2009, and I
believe that it’s housed an electricity substation serving the network ever
since.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
That really
is that. As I drive past Boston Manor, I am absolutely certain that my
challenge is at an end. I stop at Leigh Delamere and I’m still resolved to
leave it there now. I know that there are still a significant number of disused
station buildings that I haven’t visited which are outside the current reach of
the network. Then there’s the Overground. And the DLR. And that’s absolutely
fine. Maybe there’s a challenge for somebody else, maybe there’s a challenge
for me to take up in a few years’ time.
I suppose
it’s normal, on completion of a challenge’ to look back and reflect on what
you’ve achieved. Bit difficult in my case, to be honest. What have I got out of
it? Er. . . about 300 sketches and that’s about it. Well, that and the credit
card bills for the fuel and topping up the nectar card. Has it increased my
love for the tube? Probably not. What it has done, though, is booted it into
the 21st century. Prior to this my love of the tube was mostly
fuelled by nostalgia, and memories of good times from my childhood and youth,
before marriage and real adulthood. I can honesty say though that my rose
tinted specs have been removed by this trip, and I have a clearer view of what
the tube really is. It is dirty. It is smelly. It is crowded, and at times
perplexing and frustrating. It is also utterly wonderful. The wonder of the
tube isn’t that it occasionally provides a less than perfect service – the
wonder of it is that it works as well as it does. When it comes to the
stations, the underground network can be justifiably proud of the contribution they
have made to the architectural heritage of the capital, and in the newest
stations there’s evidence of this safely continuing into the future.